Tag: Paper

Painting this lady on Hotpress

Grey and Pink

Grey and Pink watercolor on 300 gsm  hotpress paper A5 size

The painting on the right, tentatively titled Grey and Pink was created on Hotpress Watercolor paper. It was my first time working on this type of paper and the experience was– a learning experience.

Hotpress paper is a lot smoother and thicker and really opaque, you can’t use any light box underneath so either you transfer your drawing on to the paper with carbon paper or a similar technique with tracing paper or use an art projector which i used for this one. You can directly draw on the paper as well but you hve to be careful with erasing lines… its not as it feels that it roughens up if you erase too much. Unlike coldpress paper which has the slight ridges its more durable to pencil work.

Anyway, what i noticed with this paper is that it doesn’t puddle the water,  and it doesnt soak in the pigment and it dries FAST.The water stays on the paper only  allowing for some blending time, . Layering was hard on this, since i was used to blending on paper on coldpress paper, which has more tooth and  can puddle water and allow for some more bleding time. I am now thinking of using Gum arabic to help a little with painting on Hotpress, but i am not sure.

Using, some transparent washes helped on creating more depth. I also tried to use alcohol and other media to create the interesting effects and experiement on this paper.

On the flipside, Hotpress paper also produces some vivid colors on little paint  and it gives it interesting edges and lines when painitng,

I am used to painting on coldpress, So i was thinking i could layer on this, but this was hard to do on hotpress. Its a great one for quick paintings, because it dries fast, and its really really smooth, which I like. I just need to learn how to control the paint on it.

Does anyone else paint on Hotpress? If so, can anyone share tips? I would love it

On Copic Paper

Marikit has been busy lately, doing some work for Artmedia Trading to compare and test some papers they sent me. And they did send me a few to work with. I was so excited to get my hands on the Copic Papers and Boards as well as my Tachikawa G-Pens that I conceptualized some pretty art for each paper.  I hope you all like it. Generally, I observed that Copic Paper retains its smoothness even after erasing heavily and pencilling– and some even after inking with the Tachikawa School G (which I used for all of the art below). The first one is


  Title: The Misadventures of Sucette Le Epices and Bonbon in Whimsyland
Materials: Copic Paper No. 6, 
Copics, Zig Kurecolor, Deleter Neopiko 2, Tachikawa School G Pen Image Here is the finished trial of Copic Paper No. 6. This is a great sheet of paper for Traditional Manga artists. The paper is smooth and nibs and pens just glide on it. and copics blend so easily. Even nib pens do not have a problem with it. I really enjoyed my experience with the paper. Bonus, the paper doesn’t bleed too much so you save on ink actually. I used a blend of copics, kurecolor and deleter on this thing, used my bleeding technique and the paper didnt tear. It held up beautifully even through tough erasing and inking. I would recommend and want to try more of it. Maybe, after the other sheets have been tested.


Title: Dear Alice
Materials: Copic PM Pad A4 White, 
Copics, Zig Kurecolor, Deleter Neopiko 2, Tachikawa School G PenImage Another paper test, this time, Copic PM Pad A4/ White. This time it’s a take on Alice, a princess like girl, very shoujo. She has no story, I just want it to look girly and sweet. She was kinda based of Alice in wonderland. But she also looks like a spoiled girl. haha… Anyway, this paper was a little hard to get used to at first. I felt it resisted color a little in the end it worked ok. I guess you have to make friends with this paper before you fully utilize it. Its good for those who want to blend colors in a watercolory type way since the ink dries out longer giving you time to work. Oh! its smooth even after heavy erasing.. but it seems that it also kind of rejects ink. my lines from Tachikawa G easily lifted off this paper. Scanning though, it produced brilliant color. So I liked it. The texture was interesting too. it gives it a real traditional painted feel


Title: Rivaille: A Touch of Royalty
Materials: Copic Paper 101 No. 2, 
Copics, Zig Kurecolor, Deleter Neopiko 2, Tachikawa School G Pen Image This one is Copic Paper 101 No.2. like other copic papers, its smooth to the finish, however, this one bleeds and warps on me even if it blended my colors well. It did NOT tear but, i was having time fighting with the warping … its alright i guess for those who use colors lightly – i probably made the wrong choice and drew Heichou ( SNK ‘s Levi) on there. XD He was colored pretty heavily. Though I am happy with how it turned out, the scanning of this proved to be brilliant as well, and it has a natural feel. Plus, it really did well blending the colors.  I don’t think I’ll buy this  — it doesnt suit my style  but for those light colorists, this is a great paper!

Title: Rozen Maiden
 Materials: Copic Manga Paper.. the rest ditto like above Image This piece was fun and well ambitious, I LOVE Rozen Maiden so I tried this piece and  i love how it turned out. It may be a bit messy but i love how the colors are blending and fading on this piece. Copic Manga is a great board to work with, it blends paper easily and is one of my favorites. It gives my work brilliance at the lightest stroke of the brush.its got a smooth finish, and doesnt bleed easily, it is a board so it doesnt warp. it is a board that made me feel pro just because it is so easy to work with. I would definitely buy this one again since I love it.

Title: Pippin and Lotte: The Prince Puppeteer and his Doll
Materials: Copic paper 101 no 3 (ditto on other materials)
 Image Pippin and Lotte, the Prince of puppeteers and his doll. I love this piece so much From concept to coloring (though I did mess up on the Background) I used Tachikawa School G Sepia for the inks so it looks virtually lineless! ❤ Copic paper 101 No 3 is a thicker brother to the Copic Paper No 6 I used with Sucette  above.. The paper  is virtually bleedproof smooth and easy to work with easily one of my favorites  The paper itself lends the smoothness of copic paper, it doesnt warp or bleed as much and its copic friendly. I am thinking of getting this and No. 6 or (a 4 or 5 ) if you have them,  I am thinking that the lower the number of the paper the higher the thickness.


I really hope that these tips help. If you are choosing paper and are ordering manga supplies, check out Artmedia Trading a Philippine Based FB trader with the friendliest staff and great service! If you are doing a manga upload it to pmangahub. com and join the growing number of mangakas! ❤ I hope you enjoy creating

[Art on a Budget]Tips on Saving on Art Supplies: 002. Do Your Homework: Materials

After  Tip #1 making a list as mentioned in the previous blog, you should have narrowed down what you need and you don’t need.  Now, I know you’re excited because you know that you have the money now to get your supplies and you have a list that you are 100% sure of. But, if I were you, I wouldn’t just hop to the closest store and go on a shopping spree. If you really want to be Smart Shopper, you might as well  do my


Do my homework?!  Wait, Marikit… WHUT?!

I said this before in the former blog but  I mean is, do research– canvass the best prices, look at different suppliers and materials before making the grand decision. This might seem painstaking and annoying, but it will save you a lot of moolah.

Here are some of my tips on researching stuff before shopping.


There are a lot of materials that are similar and one might work for one artist but won’t for another. So check your style’s strength to determine the type of materials that you want to get. If you are a beginner, you might want to go for schoolgrade or basic since  you’re still studying. But if you are an advanced artist with knowledge about your forte and the materials you are comfortable with, stick with those or find similar materials with better quality/good price on the net before setting out on your shopping trip. Here are a few things to keep in mind:

  • Quality over Quantity. – materials with MORE in it, doesn’t necessarily mean it is better. Some of them have more in it because it easily breaks or is not to up to par with the quality you are expecting.  So you end up not using it (which means it goes to total waste) or buying another set because it breaks so fast. Some materials may be a little more expensive, but they are WAY better and you can use them for a longer time. That is good investment.
  • Invest on good basics- when I say good basics, I meant good quality for the materials you often use.  If you plan to use materials for a long time, invest on good quality materials. You may want to think about this when getting things like Graphic Markers, Colored pencils and Paint.

  • Know your materials
    – make sure you know about what you are buying before you buy it. You should know the things it is made up of, what quality, what it works against etc.  I personally have wasted a lot of money experimenting on materials such as paper, pens, inks and more.   Things went smoother in the supply front when I started researching my materials and knowing what works with what and what works for my style.Speaking of which, here are a few things that you might want to check when buying materials:IMG_77212

      • PAPER – Check the GSM.  GSM is paper density.Paper products that let little or no light pass through (e.g. poster board) are considered dense or heavy. Paper products that allow some light to pass through (e.g. tissue paper) are considered lightweight.  Vellum is about 180-220 GSM … it is heavy enough to hold ink and is sturdy enough for me to keep so I like it — plus it’s not that expensive and I get to keep my art for a longer period ( it won’t crumple easily) If you are planning to keep your art, this might be a good idea.Check the smoothness of the paper as well. The smoother papers are good for colored pencil ( if you like smooth blending like me) and markers. The textured papers are amazing for some color pencil techniques, pencil and  watercolor.  So consider that when making your purchase. Consider your style and what you are about to draw so you know what kind of paper you are getting.

        Acid free paper is also good if you plan on archiving your work. Acid free paper help the materials to not fade and lasts longer as it age. Apparently these yellow slower than your average paper.This kind of paper is known to protect artwork from harm due to the acidity that a lot of papers have. It will live longer and your art will stay forever

      • PENCILS – there are soft lead pencils and hard lead pencils. THe harder the pencil, the harder it digs into the paper making it harder to erase. Softer lead pencils are easier to erase but smudge more easily.  I prefer non photo blue pencils and softer lead pencils usually a B , HB or an F .   Mechanical pencils are great for detail work and you don’t have to sharpen them all the time.Apparently comic artists have their own pencil styles and preferences and I found it fascinating to know what kind they use for their art. For beginners, a wood pencil might work better until they get used to sketching but for advanced people,  your choice.  But just remember that if you are going to color with colored pencils or a similar material, the pencil lines WILL SHOW under the wax so it is better to use softer lead.
      • ERASER – a lot of people scrimp on erasers but I tell you. ERASERS are the artists best friend. I use it not only for erasing mistakes, but also blending and keeping my art clean. I have a collection of erasers which made people ask me why i have so many when you technically use them for one thing. I say that each eraser is for a special purpose.  I use fine point erasers ( the auto eraser with refills) for finer work, I use gum and kneaded eraser to lift fine points (when I twist it) and roll it to clean up my work after inking.  I use plastic erasers for general sketching and big erasers.For those interested,  the best erasers to purchase for a basic set is a good plastic and SOFT eraser ( so you don’t tear or crumple the paper and it doesn’t ruin the paper by being too abrasive)  and a gum eraser. Finding one with a triangle tip works too!
      • COLORING MATERIALS –  I would say a lot about this and this probably would make this blog SOOO long because of the amount of things I want to say about them. So, I’ll only give general tips and leave the finer points for later.
          • Choose your coloring materials to fit your style.  Some people think that the commercialized and the Pro- materials are the only things that make amazing art. BUT WRONG. I know people who use cheap colored pencils, wax crayons, normal mongol pencils, ballpens and even cheap paint to make masterpieces that i can’t believe. SO — it’s YOU who makes the art not your materials. Having good materials is  just the icing on the cake.  So if you have to buy coloring materials, make sure it suits your style of art and that you can make the most use out of it and not buy materials that are PRO but you cannot use them.
          • Colored Pencil buying tips – depending on your style, but check the wax content of the color pencil you are buying. Harder lead colored pencils are tougher to color with and dig into the paper. They have a lighter color laydown as well so it will be hard to get vibrant colors with it, however it might work with shoujo manga which has lighter colors.  Check also how old the pencil is . Older stocked pencils tend to harden and there will be white material build up on the lead. That makes it harder to color with until you rub it off.
          • Water Color Pencil – watercolor pencils are somewhere in between colored pencils and watercolor. These are good if you use both mediums and they blend better.
      • pin001INKS – if you use pen inks, then chances of it being copic proof are high. If you do not ever intend to color your work with watercolor and/or copics then any brand will do. But if you want to color with wet materials, look for things that are acid-free, lightfast, fadeproof,waterproof /copic proof etc.
        • Lightfastness – The lightfastness or permanence of a pigment is its resistance to change on exposure to light. Ink fades overtime when exposed to light so a lightfast ink is good to prevent it from fading and to keep your art for a long time.
        • Check what the pen is made of.  Waterbased ink is no good for copics/watercolor. Make sure you get  PIGMENT INK.

There you go! Once you have done your research and find out what you want go ahead and buy! Check places online like Artmedia Trading ! They give great prices and excellent service! ❤

Thanks for reading and I hope you learned a lot, the next part of the series is  BABY YOUR MATERIALS!



The Truth about Manga Materials

One of the most common questions that people ask me is: Where do you get your supplies?  and  What do I need to get started in creating Manga/Anime Art? Then,  when I answer about my materials, they follow up with  OMG! That’s too expensive! I will never be a mangaka at this rate. 

Then, I have to go through the whole litany of telling them that it’s not about materials (though having good materials help), and it’s all about the artist who uses the materials that makes the art.  But, of course, it takes a lot of convincing – because a lot of people simply do not know what they really need when they go material shopping for Manga Supplies.

So, to clear all that up let me take you through the basic manga supplies that you might need to start your adventures at mangakas. Basically, these are your basic tools of the trade.

(BTW, I would like to repeat that I am in no way an expert, just sharing my knowledge and what I have learned so far)

  • Pencils  – when it comes to pencils. ANYTHING will do. A good sharp pencil will do the trick. Some prefer mechanical pencils and personally, I prefer a Non-photo blue pencil to do my art. As long as you are comfortable with your pencil, it’s okay.
  • Paper/Cardstock- For an initial sketch, you may want to do it in sketchpad or ordinary white paper. I usually do mine in A4 sized paper or B5 because that is manga industry standard. (also we have a ton of A4 at work).  A good smooth paper around 170 GSM and up is recommended if you are going to ink and color your work. Also, if you are coloring with Markers/ watercolor you might want to even go higher on the GSM — I use around 200 GSM cardstock (or higher) for smoother coloring. The smoother the paper the better (but let’s not go glossy). I personally use Vellum Boards from National Bookstore, some artists prefer Bristol boards but its up to you. Vellum is cheaper and readily available. Of course you can also use cartolina cut up.. or illustration boards.
  • Eraser/Sharpener- Do not underestimate the powers of a good sharpener and eraser. They aid you in creating art and keeping your art clean!

I want to say that  with these two you can start your manga. A lot of my friends practice with only pen and paper and from there, they move on to inking and coloring.  I also adore some monochrome art and you can learn toning with pencils. So, don’t ignore your pencils!

  • Inking Materials – once you have mastered with the pencils, you might want to move on with inking materials. Personally I have a ton of these so here are my notes.DSC00390
    • If you don’t intend to ever color your work with Alcohol based markers, go for the cheaper, the better. There are a lot of gelpens available for cheap you can use those for inking.
    • China Ink costs cheap, use them with a brush or a nib for good inking.
    • I use Redstone’s Indian Ink or Drawing ink Sometimes with a china brush (the thinnest one) and or Nibs.
    • Nibs are cheap in JOLI’s behind UST. Skyists brand about PHP100.00
    • Unipins are also cool to use.  They dry instantly, and don’t smear under alcohol based ink.  They are also fairly cheap.
    • Believe it or not, some artists line their art with Black COLORED pencils. (It does for softer effect)
    • I also use sepias/brown fineliners for my art my favorite is the STEADLER TRILINER or the Faber castell both costs around PHP 20.00 in National Bookstore. ( I will talk more about Inking materials in my next blogs!)
  • Rulers and Guides/French Curves
    Obviously you need these to help guide you through your lines, I have a compass even, protractors and other rules, to help me create backgrounds, do perspective and keep my lineart looking neat and clean.
  • Correction Fluid/ White Acrylic paint – to erase lines that you don’t need and it’s amazing for highlights. If you can find a white Gelpen, paint pen or an Artline white multiliner, that is amazing to have as well.
  • Coloring Materials- I will also discuss this in a future blog, but I would suggest getting what you feel you are good at. I love colored pencils and they are my best medium as well as graphic markers. You don’t have to spend a lot on them. Just as long as you can color with them. A friend of mine uses ordinary crayons to make amazing art. So, as long as you are happy with your materials, it will be alright.
  • FINALLY, you need your patience and creativity.  Because Manga making takes a lot of time, perseverance and creativity.Most of all, and this is most important: HAVE A BLAST while making your manga!

These are some of the basic materials I think one should need in making manga art, so if I missed anything or if you have any questions, feel free to ask me ! ❤